I got into the "popup ground blind" craze with the rest of you a few years back. The blind worked, but my complaints were that the blind required a large open spot, the blind was noisy to set up, and the blind was near impossible to take down to it's original folded state. In fact, I simply left it in a flattened state rather than attempting to coil it up completely. Then, I thought of an idea to enclose my burlap portable blind with a roof and chimney in order to send my scent up and away. So I created a blind entirely from burlap that you see pictured.
I improved this blind by sewing in a tight weave polyester camo liner and making the chimney out of stretchy tough high density camo material. The modified blind worked like a charm! See the video below where a thistle seed clump floats up toward the top! This blind, with the extra liner and super tough top, will cost around $200, but it will be a light, portable, quiet blind that can be set up in a well concealed location since you make it whatever shape you want. In fact, it is very easy to make this blind nearly invisible! It hangs down and drapes over the support sticks you place in the ground. And it will take care of much of your scent. I must note that after designing and building this blind, I found a hard-sided blind called a SCENTite Blind at Advantagehunting.com that also uses a chimney but is a heavier blind that you can not simply backpack in without an ATV or truck. I would wager their blinds, with their 30 foot chimney, would work outstandingly. At any rate, if you want some light portable chimney blind that may be backpacked in, see my plans below. Such a lightweight portable blind as mine does not exist on the market right now so you will have to make it yourself. Find a person good with a sewing machine to help out on this.
Instructions for Building Chimney Ground Hunting Blind
STEPS
Create TWO 4 1/2 ft by 24 ft pieces consisting of 54" wide burlap sewed to 54" wide lightweight camo polyester mesh. This requres about 48 ft (16 yards) of each type of material.
With the burlap sides facing in, sew the two pieces of step 1 together at an edge, creating about a 9 ft by 24 ft piece that consists of burlap on the outside and camo polyester on the inside. See image in step 3. Note that you will not want the sewn edge showing on the burlap side but rather on the inside polyester side.
With the burlap side facing down, sew ends of the 9 by 24 piece together, creating a large cylinder about 9 ft high and 24 feet in circumference (12 ft across when flattened out). Note that pieces are most easily sewn together by placing the edges together flat against each other and sewing several times an inch in or so, as shown below.
On flattened out cylinder that is turned inside out so burlap side is in, sew diagonally, as shown below, to create "funnel" in top that goes to chimney. Cut off excess from diagonal areas. Again, remember that you want the sewn edges on the inside polyester side, not the burlap side.
Create chimney from 3 yds of tight weave stronger material by sewing about 14" in from edge. Make chimney piece about 7 1/2 feet long. See photos below.
Sew on the non-camo side so when finished the seam will be inside.
With the blind and chimney both turned inside out, sew the chimney to the funnel shaped blind. This is a bit tricky, but can be done on a machine. Also, it can be done by hand but would be tedious. See the photo below.
Place at least 2 or 3 stiches.
Sew end of chimney about 1" from the edge to create a place for a metal rod to go around opening. Threadr 3/16" rod through this opening to form a circle about 9" in diameter. Attach wire to this as shown below.
In 5-ft 1x2 sticks, drill holes so that large pole barn spikes may be hammered in without splitting the wood. Insert the spikes and then cut off the ends with a hacksaw.
In three of the sticks, drill a 4" hole in big enough for the pole barn spike of another stick to fit in, creating a 10+ long sick.
Create a hanger from the 3/16" rod that can be placed on the end of one of the sticks. The hanger is shown below. Also, it is helpful to insert an eyelet on several of the sticks, as shown.
Also, Create a rope weight from a scrap chunk of wood with an eyelet screwed in the end.
Set up your blind (see video below). After it is set up and you have the seat in it that you plan to sit on, cut out windows to suit your window. You may wish to use velcro strips as fastteners. You can also get some shoot through material if you want. I leave it up to you.
I got into the "popup ground blind" craze with the rest of you a few years back. The blind worked, but my complaints were that the blind required a large open spot, the blind was noisy to set up, and the blind was near impossible to take down to it's original folded state. In fact, I simply left it in a flattened state rather than attempting to coil it up completely. Then, I thought of an idea to enclose my burlap portable blind with a roof and chimney in order to send my scent up and away. So I created a blind entirely from burlap that you see pictured.
I improved this blind by sewing in a tight weave polyester camo liner and making the chimney out of stretchy tough high density camo material. The modified blind worked like a charm! See the video below where a thistle seed clump floats up toward the top! This blind, with the extra liner and super tough top, will cost around $200, but it will be a light, portable, quiet blind that can be set up in a well concealed location since you make it whatever shape you want. In fact, it is very easy to make this blind nearly invisible! It hangs down and drapes over the support sticks you place in the ground. And it will take care of much of your scent. I must note that after designing and building this blind, I found a hard-sided blind called a SCENTite Blind at 
